There’s plenty to explore around the Alder Hotel, even on foot. Mostly, this area of the city is heavily residential, with late 19th-century houses and small commercial properties drowning in lush greenery. The grand mansions under the canopies of live oaks of St. Charles Avenue are a few blocks away, and so is the shopping and dining strip of Magazine Street.

One of the main attractions in the neighborhood is Freret Street, named after an antebellum New Orleans mayor. The stately mansions mix with the historic shotguns, surrounding the thriving eight-block corridor of Freret Street between Napoleon and Jefferson avenues. Due to the robust recovery and development efforts led by the locally-owned small businesses, developers, and the city administration, the street got an injection of much-needed business and renovation and is showing no signs of slowing down.

The neighborhood has its own monthly market and an annual festival, both held along Freret Street’s commercial strip. It even has its own Carnival krewe, Krewe of Freret, which parades during Mardi Gras and hosts a summer stroll.

Just walking down the Freret Street corridor will bring you to the top-notch (and some of the most diverse) shopping and entertainment destinations. Of course, there’s plenty to eat and drink there as well. In the morning, hit up the dim and cozy Mojo Coffee House or the Rook Cafe for vegan pastries and locally roasted coffee.

Need something more substantial first thing in the morning? The fun, upbeat Slim Goodies Diner on Magazine Street won’t steer you wrong with its inventively named slammers (different kinds of scrambles, from meaty to vegan, served with hash browns). Another inexpensive option is The Camellia Grill, a legendary Carrollton Avenue diner that’s been serving hearty omelets and pecan pie since 1946. There will probably be a line, but it moves quickly, and you can get breakfast all day.

Molly’s Rise and Shine on Magazine Street, the followup to nationally buzzed-about Turkey and the Wolf, is also worth a visit. Its menu is full of items like bagel bites, burritos, the star special, the Grand Slam McMuffin (pork patties, hashbrowns, onions, American cheese), but also lighter fare like the roasted carrot yogurt.

A bright, quaint daytime cafe best known for its hearty American breakfast, Riccobono’s Panola Street Cafe is yet another option. Since opening in 1998, Riccobono’s Panola Street Cafe has become a New Orleans fixture, known for some of the best breakfast in the city. Panola serves classics like Eggs Benedict, Crabcakes Benedict, and a host of specialty omelets from open to close (8 a.m. – 2 p.m.), along with hot-plate lunch specials every weekday.

For lunch, try alligator sausage at the affordable Dat Dog, or have a craft cocktail at Cure and a glass of award-winning wine at Bar Frances come happy hour. Any time of day, catfish is the star of the menu of the Louisiana-meets-the-Delta High Hat Cafe. Also, check out Mint Modern Vietnamese Bistro & Bar for several varieties of pho, banh mi, or a kimchi burger (we love this place!).

Guy’s Po-Boys has been a beloved local lunch staple since the early 1990s. It’s often voted among the top five po-boy shops in the city, if not the top. The fried shrimp po-boy is definitely among the best in the city. A great on-the-go lunch option on the bustling Magazine Street, Tal’s Hummus is a quick-service-style tiny spot that specializes in Israeli-inspired food such as falafel, hummus, pita sandwiches, platters, kebabs, salads, and more. It’s fresh, quick, delicious, and made fresh to order.

At least two more Magazine Street lunch options among the post-pandemic newcomers we can recommend are the ramen bar Nomiya and Picnic Provisions & Whiskey, a family- and dog-friendly indoor/outdoor, casual spot from the people helming Commander’s Palace, including co-founder and owner Tory McPhail, the former executive chef at Commander’s.

Dinner options abound, too. Our top recommendations include Appoline or Bistro Daisy for their romantic settings and high-end Southern/French cuisine, the iconic Casamento’s for oysters and other types of local seafood, chef Alon Shaya’s Saba or the family-friend Misa for elevated Middle Eastern cuisine, and the ever popular Taqueria Corona for great margaritas and family-style classic Mexican food.

The very photogenic St. Charles Avenue is probably best seen out of its historic streetcar, which you can ride for all of $1.25 from the CBD/downtown all the way upriver (exact change required, or get passes online). The street has retained a good number of historically significant 19th-century mansions, and you’ll find a lot of them in the Garden District section of Uptown.

St. Charles Avenue hosts one of the best collections of historic houses in the South, including the “Wedding Cake House” (5807 St. Charles Ave.), the 1896 Colonial Revival home with lots of Victorian splendor to offer; the “Anthemion” (4631 St. Charles Ave.), which used to house the Japanese consulate; the “Smith House” (4534 St. Charles Ave.), built in 1906 for the president of the New Orleans Cotton Exchange, William Smith; the “Elms Mansion” (3029 St. Charles Ave.), an 1869 architectural wonder; and the “Diocesan” (2265 St. Charles Ave.), designed and built by the prominent local architect James Gallier.

Another St. Charles Avenue gem that deserves a mention is the Milton H. Latter Memorial Library, a restored neo-Italianate limestone mansion built in 1907 for a wealthy merchant, Mark Isaacs. Inside, you’ll find the original ceiling frescoes and murals, and the well-preserved formal rooms on the first two floors.

Heading into Carrolton and toward the Mississippi River, the imposing facades and sprawling balconies become generously mixed with the more modest but still well-preserved shotguns and thriving local businesses, including some of the best bars and restaurants in the city.

Of course, don’t miss the magnificent Audubon Park which contains the Audubon Zoo and faces the historic campuses of Tulane and Loyola universities. Both boast an architectural mix of styles of the 19th century and modern, with the backdrop of large live oaks.

Just like Freret Street’s revitalized strip, the 13 blocks of Magazine Street are meant to be walked. It’s the main commercial artery that the Garden District and Uptown share, and it’s crammed with restaurants, bars, sidewalk cafes, and dozens of retail stores where you can buy local art, antiques, vintage clothing, funky costumes, and more. Get some locally made New Orleans-centric gear at Dirty Coast or Fleurty Girl, or satisfy your costuming and vintage needs at Funky Monkey and Miss Claudia’s Vintage Clothing & Costumes.

If you’d like a dozen raw oysters with your martini, head to the iconic Pascal’s Manale, where oysters are shucked right in front of you. For live music, the iconic Tipitina’s and the Maple Leaf Bar cannot be beaten, both a short ride away. There’s also something going on at Gasa Gasa, be it a movie screening, live music, or a krewe party.

Finally, no Uptown architectural tour is complete without hitting the above-ground Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 on Washington Avenue, in the heart of the Garden District. It’s the oldest of the seven city-operated cemeteries in New Orleans, with some interesting society tombs (the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, Home For Destitute Orphan Boys among them) and over a thousand family tombs. The iconic cemetery has served as a popular backdrop for many music videos and movies over the years (Double Jeopardy, Dracula, etc.). Please note that as of December 2022, the cemetery is closed for maintenance and repairs.

And right across the street is the incomparable Commander’s Palace (elevated Creole fare), a slice of classic New Orleans, not to be missed.

Happy exploring near the Alder Hotel!

New Orleans is considered one of the most romantic destinations in the country, if not the world. It’s easy to have a great time on a date in practically any part of this city, but Uptown holds its own against, say, the French Quarter, by bringing its historic past as the “American sector” and its unique charm into the equation.

There you’ll find majestic mansions under the canopies of the centuries-old live oaks, charming, dimly lit restaurants, modern cafes, shopping for blocks, photogenic streetcars, and iconic bars with world-class live music pouring out on any given night. Impressing your loved one doesn’t need to break the bank, either. In New Orleans, even a morning stroll in the park could bring on the magic. Here are our suggestions for some fun activities for couples in Uptown New Orleans.

Breakfast

Whether you would prefer to linger with a cocktail or want to have a quick yet solid breakfast at a diner, Uptown has no shortage of high-to-low options. If you’re looking for an inexpensive local hangout with Southern staples and plenty of local color, the fun, upbeat Slim Goodies Diner on Magazine Street won’t steer you wrong with its inventively named slammers (different kinds of scrambles, from meaty to vegan, served with hash browns). The Creole Slammer, for instance, comes with a biscuit and crawfish etouffee.

Another inexpensive option is the Camellia Grill, a legendary Carrollton Avenue diner that’s been serving hearty omelets and pecan pie since 1946. There will probably be a line, but it moves quickly, and you can get breakfast all day.

If you are coffee-and-a-pastry-for-breakfast people, the incomparable Gracious Bakery + Cafe has two locations Uptown, at 2854 St. Charles Avenue on the corner of 6th Street in the Garden District, and at 4930 Prytania Street. All baked goods and breakfast sandwiches are top-notch, and there are house-made granola and house-cured salmon bagels.

Looking for a cozy, welcoming hangout where you can grab small-batch roasted coffee, and a vegan muffin, and connect to wi-fi? Mojo Coffee House is the spot. You won’t find full kitchen service at this laid-back coffee house but for caffeine and a quick bite, nothing beats Mojo. French Truck Coffee has the best iced cold-drip coffee New Orleans has to offer,  served in a high-ceilinged, Edison bulb-hung space.

Another excellent option is the beautiful La Boulangerie, a French bakery and cafe with all the menu items hand-prepared according to traditional recipes and sidewalk tables.

If you can swing an early breakfast, Molly’s Rise and Shine and Riccobono’s Panola Street Cafe  are both excellent choices.

Molly’s serves a mean breakfast full of items like bagel bites, burritos, the star special, the Grand Slam McMuffin (pork patties, hashbrowns, onions, American cheese), but also lighter fare like the roasted carrot yogurt. And, since opening in 1998, Riccobono’s Panola Street Cafe has become a New Orleans fixture, known for some of the best breakfast in the city. Both are open from 8 a.m. till 2 p.m.

St. Charles Streetcar

Not just a means of public transportation, the historic St. Charles Avenue line streetcar is on many visitors’ bucket lists because it’s the oldest continuously operating streetcar line in the world (since 1835). It will set you back $1.25 per person, and the route is as scenic as it gets, with the columned mansions surrounded by impressive gardens and wrought-iron fences. Take it either all the way from Canal Street to the end of the line by the River, or hop on and off along St. Charles Avenue to take in the sights.

Walking Tours

Spend some time taking in the extraordinary beauty of Uptown’s many architectural styles. Whether you prefer to explore on foot, by car or by bus, both self-guided and guided tours are available daily. You can just walk around the historic district spotting celebrity houses and marveling at the gardens, or hop on the streetcar to visit the historic Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. (Please note that as of Fall 2022 the cemetery is still temporarily closed for repairs.)

Audubon Park and The Fly

The streetcar also brings you right to the urban oasis of historic Audubon Park. Located near the picturesque campuses of Tulane and Loyola universities, Audubon Park is perfect for a stroll among the oaks and the lagoons, or a picnic (bring some bread to feed the ducks). The area behind the Audubon Zoo and along the Mississippi River, known as The Fly, is a lovely spot to simply sit and watch the boats go by.

Shopping

Magazine and Freret streets and St. Charles Avenue are all commercial hubs with block after block of shopping destinations. Magazine Street in particular is worth (an easy walk) for about 10 blocks, which are packed with sidewalk cafes, galleries, antique stores, vintage boutiques, and funky local costume stores. Get some locally made New Orleans-centric gear at Dirty Coast or Fleurty Girl, or satisfy your costuming and vintage needs at Funky Monkey and Miss Claudia’s Vintage Clothing & Costumes.

Lunch and Dinner

Uptown has many cozy, romantic spots for either a lingering lunch or a romantic dinner date. La Crepe Nanou, located on the corner of Robert and Prytania Streets, is an intimate French bistro with a fantastic selection of sweet and savory crepes and a wine list to complement them. It’s consistently voted as the “most romantic” on various lists for its ambiance. Another small, French-Italian bistro, Lilette, boasts a heated patio, cozy booths and a sophisticated, sharable menu. Patois puts a local spin on mussels, grilled Gulf shrimp and southern staples like sweetbreads in a lovely, softly-lit setting.

You’ll find exposed brick, chandeliers and gleaming hardwood floors at Coquette, another sophisticated Magazine Street destination with a locally sourced menu and craft cocktails. Choose from the small and big plate menus, or put yourselves into the chef’s capable hands with a five-course blind tasting.

For authentic Sicilian cuisine head to Avo. The seasonal menu is bursting with seafood (try the charred octopus) and homemade pasta dishes. The interior is gorgeous, but see if you can score a table in the candlelit courtyard, perfect for a special occasion.

We also recommend both Apolline  and Bistro Daisy for their romantic settings. Set in a renovated double shotgun cottage, Apolline spotlights chef Michael Shelton’s creative use of local ingredients in modern Southern dishes like veal sweetbreads and crawfish bisque. Impress your date with some elevated dining, New Orleans style.

Bistro Daisy is a quaint eatery nestled in a charming cottage located in the heart of Uptown New Orleans. It’s been open since 2007 and is named after the owners Anton & Diane Schulte daughter. As the name suggests, it’s a bistro, with fresh, seasonal and often local ingredients on the French-leaning menu. Expect elevated takes on the Gulf fish, leg of duck confit, and bouillabaisse.

La Petite Grocery, the former 19th-century neighborhood grocery, was beautifully transformed by owner-chefs Justin Devillier in 2010. A 2016 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: South, Devillier puts his creative spin on traditional New Orleans cuisine with dishes like blue crab beignets and shellfish stew.

Two more good date spots are the Misa (lovely patio) and Alon Shaya’s Saba. Both are located on Magazine Street and feature Middle Eastern cuisine.

Last but not the least, you haven’t gotten a taste of classic romantic New Orleans if you haven’t visited Pascal’s Manale Restaurant. Watch the oysters getting shucked in front of you in this dark-paneled, elegant space with a martini in hand, and maybe stay for dinner to sample Pascal’s legendary BBQ shrimp and veal Picatta.

A Movie

Few things are more romantic than catching a classic movie in a century-old theater, especially on a rainy day. Prytania Theatre is the oldest theater in the city and the only single-screen one left in Louisiana. Inside, you’ll find plush red seats and a tiny coffee stand with excellent gelato and espresso. Prytania screens the classics like Citizen Cane and Casablanca regularly, and cult classics at midnight.

Happy Hour

Pizza Domenica on Magazine Street offers excellent wine and draft beer lists as well as half off its wood-fired pizzas (some of the best in New Orleans) daily, 3-5 p.m. If you’d like to share some wine, head to Bar Frances on Freret Street, to sample its excellent selection during a generous happy hour.

Music

Dance the sultry night away at the iconic Tipitina’s, which has hosted everyone from world-famous acts in town for Jazz Fest to local brass bands and the Mardi Gras Indians. The Maple Leaf Bar, with its tin ceiling and a hopping dance floor, has live music every night at 10 p.m., including some of the best brass bands in the city every Tuesday. Don’t miss that.

Have fun being out and about!

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Photo courtesy of Cure NOLA on Facebook

Once a sleepy neighborhood thoroughfare bordering Tulane University, Freret Street has undergone a revival over the past decade, becoming a food and entertainment destination in its own right. From Japanese to Southern soul food, there’s a cuisine for almost everyone — and Freret Street is only two blocks from the Alder Hotel.

Another plus? Freret’s Uptown location means it attracts a smaller, more local crowd, which equals shorter waits at excellent, off-the-beaten-path bars and eateries. Here’s a sample of what to do, eat and drink along one of the most vibrant, action-packed commercial corridors in the city.

High Hat Cafe (4500 Freret St.)

Part old-fashioned diner, part neighborhood bar and part Deep South food destination, High Hat Cafe is a great place to grab a plate of fried catfish, a bowl of chicken and andouille gumbo, or a shrimp po-boy. Huge glass windows offer a prime opportunity to people-watch while eating a slice of house-made pie. (Save room for a snack at the next Freret Street destination.)

Ancora (4508 Freret St.)

Ancora’s pizza is made Neapolitan-style, using wood-burning ovens and without commercial yeast. Ancora created its own starter in-house, and the dough takes three days to prepare from start to finish, with a crust that is unique to New Orleans. Drinks include seasonal Italian sodas, craft cocktails, and wines from the Campania region of southern Italy. Check out the house-made salumi and happy-hour pizza specials. Ancora is located in a renovated building next to High Hat Cafe.

The Rook Cafe (4516 Freret St.)

Looking for a quiet locals’ hangout with vegan pastries, locally roasted coffee, free wi-fi, and a vibe that encourages you to settle in for a few hours with a game of chess or a good book? The Rook is the place. The cozy coffee shop also hosts frequent gamers’ nights and pop-ups.

Bar Frances (4525 Freret St.)

Bar Frances has been operating since 2016, courtesy of Mark Latter, who also owns the historic Tujague’s in the French Quarter. It’s an airy, spacious and thoroughly modern bistro, with wood finishes, a marble bar that seats more than a dozen, and covered patio seating. The menu is seasonal, with small plates like tuna tartare and lamb meatballs. There’s also a full dinner menu featuring high-quality steaks, burgers and Gulf fish if you want to dig in. Wine rules at Bar Frances, offered on tap and by carafes, and through clever pairings. There’s a generous daily happy hour featuring a large selection of natural wines.

The Company Burger (4600 Freret St.)

The Company Burger on Freret and Cadiz streets offers a solid menu of delicious burgers, fries and milkshakes. The menu keeps it simple with the award-winning lamb, turkey, and beef burgers, plus sides, shakes, and cocktails. The house burger comes with a fried egg, two patties, and bacon. The “not burger” options are also kept simple: hot dogs, and grilled cheese and fried chicken sandwiches.

Midway Pizza (4725 Freret St.)

Deep-dish pizza isn’t that easy to find in New Orleans, and this restaurant housed in an industrial, high-ceilinged space uses an age-old family recipe. All of its pizzas, salads and flatbreads are made in-house.

Cure (4905 Freret St.)

The owners of Cure were at the forefront of Freret Street’s revitalization when they opened this chic craft cocktail bar in 2009. Located in a 1903 fire station, the James Beard Award-winning Cure is sleek, dimly lit, and filled with stylish nine-to-fivers, especially during its happy hour. The Washington Post, Eater, The New York Times, Travel + Leisure, and many other publications have listed Cure among their picks for top U.S. bars. Get a classic or custom craft cocktail and a cheese plate, and enjoy both on a leafy, secluded patio to start the night.

Gasa Gasa (4920 Freret St.)

You’ll know you’ve arrived at this hip music venue when you see the psychedelic, black-and-white mural by Berlin graffiti artist MTO outside. Depending on the night, local or touring musical acts, comedy shows, burlesque performances, or movie screenings may be on the roster. The patio is a comfortable place to relax with a beer. And, if a hunger pang strikes, a food truck is never far away.

Freret Beer Room (5018 Freret St.)

This gastropub had a revamp in the summer of 2019, adding TVs and an updated menu that focuses on pairing craft beer with modern American cuisine (sandwiches, salads, cheese and charcuterie boards). Proprietor Eli Gay also runs a retail beer shop next door.

Dat Dog (5030 Freret St.)

Dat Dog’s both Uptown locations, including the Freret St. one near Soniat St., have dog-friendly outdoor seating, which is great for people-watching too. The affordable Dat Dog dishes out a wide variety of meat, fish, vegan and veggie hot dogs, sausages, and other kid-friendly comfort food like burgers and chicken. The dogs and the sausages come with a choice of more than 30 toppings.

Mint Modern Vietnamese Bistro & Bar (5100 Freret St.)

Mint’s streamlined menu is modern indeed, packed with specialty rolls, several varieties of pho, banh mi, and a kimchi burger. One of the unusual specialty cocktails is Fishy Surprise, which is made with whiskey, Drambuie, grapefruit juice, and fish sauce.

The Uptown District stretches from Broadway Street, incorporating the Garden District, and all the way into Carrolton and to the Mississippi River. It’s a heavily residential area peppered with grand mansions, lush gardens, and shopping and dining strips — all canopied by the majestic, centuries-old live oaks.

With its photogenic St. Charles Avenue (along which runs a world-famous streetcar), immaculate late-19th century houses, and small, unique shops and restaurants, it’s safe to say that Uptown is one of the most beautiful and heavily visited parts of New Orleans. Green and storybook-picturesque, Uptown retained a good number of historically significant 19th-century mansions built in Italianate, Victorian, and Greek Revival styles, many of which are painstakingly maintained and are in great condition.

The history

The area, now known as Uptown New Orleans, was granted to Louisiana Governor Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sier de Bienville, in 1719 and divided into smaller plantations in 1723. Uptown was laid out as an urban open system in 1806 by the notable Creole city planner Barthelemy Lafon. The idea was to intersperse and connect a series of parks and residential neighborhoods. It was especially thriving after the World’s Industrial and Cotton Centennial Exposition held in 1884. Parts of Uptown that now contain the stunning Garden District were inhabited by the well-to-do American arrivals after the Louisiana Purchase.

Uptown is easy to get to from other parts of the city, and easy to navigate, in part due to the convenience of the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line. On any given day you’ll see visitors hopping on and off the streetcar to take in some sightseeing.

The architecture

Uptown’s architecture is historically unique. It’s easy to fall in love with the area’s oak-lined streets, its lavish gardens that seem to be in bloom all year round, the grand mansions, and the well-preserved shotguns. Most homes aren’t open to the public but are still worth seeing for their exterior alone. Many houses still bear the names of the families that built them. One could spend the whole day on the historic St. Charles Avenue alone, getting a glimpse at 19th-century New Orleans. The sprawling avenue stretches from Downtown to Uptown, all the way to the river, hosting one of the best collections of historic houses in the South.

Notable houses

A few most notable ones not to miss, in the descending house number order, are the “Wedding Cake House” (5807 St. Charles Ave.), the 1896 Colonial Revival home with lots of Victorian splendor to offer; the “Anthemion” (4631 St. Charles Ave.), which used to house the Japanese consulate; the “Smith House” (4534 St. Charles Ave.), built in 1906 for the president of the New Orleans Cotton Exchange, William Smith; the “Elms Mansion” (3029 St. Charles Ave.), an 1869 architectural wonder; and the “Diocesan” (2265 St. Charles Ave.), designed and built by the prominent local architect James Gallier.

The Milton H. Latter Memorial Library

Another St. Charles Avenue gem that deserves a mention is the Milton H. Latter Memorial Library (5120 St. Charles Ave.). This restored neo-Italianate limestone mansion was designed by architects Favrot and Livaudais, and built in 1907 for a wealthy merchant, Mark Isaacs. It was donated to the city by the Latter family in memory of their son, and opened as a library in 1948. Inside, you’ll find the original ceiling frescoes and murals, and the well-preserved formal rooms on the first two floors.

Audubon Park and Zoo

The architectural wonders of Uptown also contain a park, a cemetery, and not one but two university campuses. The magnificent Audubon Park and the beautifully appointed Audubon Zoo are only a short streetcar ride away and probably don’t need an introduction. The historic park is a meticulously planned urban oasis and an architectural wonder interspersed with lagoons, picnic shelters, and walking paths.

Tulane and Loyola universities

Right across Audubon Park, you’ll find the campuses of Tulane and Loyola universities. Tulane started as a Medical College of Louisiana in 1847, in an effort to study and treat the deadly diseases like yellow fever, malaria and smallpox that the city was importing via its port. It morphed into what it is now after Paul Tulane, a wealthy merchant, donated more than $1 million in land, cash and securities in 1884. Placed on the National Register of Historic Places, Tulane University’s campus occupies more than 110 acres and extends north to S. Claiborne Avenue through Freret and Willow streets. From Italian Renaissance to Mid-Century Modern, the campus boasts many styles and is known for its large live oak trees.

You can find Loyola’s sprawling main campus adjacent to Tulane and facing St. Charles Avenue and Audubon Park. It was established in 1904 on the land purchased by the New Orleans Jesuits in 1889. Marquette Hall is the oldest campus building and is the iconic image of the university you’ll probably recognize the most.

Lafayette Cemetery No. 1

Temporarily closed.

Finally, no Uptown architectural tour is complete without hitting the above-ground Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 on Washington Avenue, in the heart of the Garden District. It’s the oldest of the seven city-operated cemeteries in New Orleans, with some interesting society tombs (the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, Home For Destitute Orphan Boys among them) and over a thousand family tombs. The iconic cemetery has served as a popular backdrop for many music videos and movies over the years (Double Jeopardy, Dracula, etc.). As of 2022, it’s closed for maintenance and repairs, with plans to reopen.